scent cabinet

in the small space, you feel your back press against the hard edge of something.

you turn to find a wall-mounted black display cabinet, its shelves lined with a curious assortment of dark bottles and vials. the sight brings to mind an apothecary, or perhaps some sort of alchemy lab . . .

"fragrances," rasps the storyteller, a smile in their voice. "i started collecting them when i was still human."

"would you like to hear about them?"

there are currently 79 scents in my collection !

lvnea

♡

ghost pine

crisp pine needles, patchouli, crushed foliage, damp moss patches, ancient woods

this was the scent that sparked my fragrance obsession. a foggy morning in the countryside captured in a bottle--one of those rare masterpieces that completely transports you. the first time i twisted the cap off my sample, i felt my anxiety melt away into an embrace of pine needles and fresh morning dew, and i learned what power fragrance can have. ghost pine is a comfort beyond compare. it comes as no surprise that this is their best seller.

dagger moon

mitti attar (baked earth), tree moss, ruh khus (vetiver and sandalwood attar), palo santo, juniper berries, coffee bean, nutmeg

this one is beautiful, although quite difficult to describe! rich and earthy, complex and mysterious. there's a distinct sharp edge to it--a bitter quality that i would tentatively attribute to the juniper berries. initially i had hoped the coffee would be more prominent, but i think this blend is precisely what it wants to be. :)

l'alchimie

blood orange, rose, jasmine, amber, red mandarin peel, rosemary absolute, black peppercorn

one of lvnea's brighter, sweeter blends. this one opens with a pleasant kiss of blood orange and mandarin, then soon gives way to the warmth of amber and soft florals. my sample has aged quite a bit, but this fragrance seems to get better as it matures. a good choice for those who want something natural that isn't so earthy.

♡

mourning ritual

black velvet, frankincense oman, russian apothecary roses, opoponax, patchouli

this is one of the gothest scents in my collection. i always recommend this one highly, especially to those who gravitate towards incense-based perfumes. a somber, elegant, fittingly funereal fragrance that conjures up visions of black veils and lifeless bouquets. the scent is incense-rich, with ghostly traces of crushed black velvet and patchouli. the wilted rose notes throughout the blend are captivating, providing the darkest floral undertones. absolutely beautiful. my partner adores this one on me. ♡

♡

l'étranger

oak barrels, aged whiskey, dried wild tobacco leaves, vanilla bean, fresh cut wood

a warm, rich, boozy blend of whiskey and tobacco, encased in aged oakwood and delicately sweetened with vanilla. this one always turned a little too sweet on my skin, but fresh from the bottle it was the olfactory equivalent of a long, warm hug. deeply comforting and therapeutic. this is a fragrance i kept around to smell even if i didn't wear it. unfortunately, this scent seems to have been retired from their main line.

black sea

driftwood, burnt seashells, botanical ambergris, bergamot, coconut, salted lime

this one is unique. when i sampled it for the first time, the crisp, salty opening note hit like a sharp stab in the back of my nose. initially unpleasant--but unraveling mystically into something that eludes description. it's a ghost ship on the horizon, haunted sea air in a bottle. however, like l'étranger, this one appears to have also been discontinued.

forêt dormante

cypress, olibanum, violet leaf, rose de mai, bergamot, oakmoss, piñon pine resin

a green, fresh, foresty scent, brightened by bergamot. i would liken it to a sweeter, sunnier ghost pine. as this is an alcohol-based eau de parfum and not an oil, it's a little too strong for me to wear comfortably, but it's lovely regardless and i still like to smell it from the bottle from time to time. :)

♡

tasseomancy

black tea, bergamot, honey, warm milk, spice

this is a very grounding, comforting scent. a warm cup of tea with milk and honey, and a delicate touch of spice. the lapsang souchong was a perfect choice of tea--it works beautifully in this fragrance, lending the blend a slightly smoky, malty quality. i received a fullsize bottle of this one as a gift from a friend, and i absolutely treasure it. ♡

♡

cuir fétiche

aged agarwood, burning incense, leather, saffron spice, fossilized amber

the leather in this isn't actually leather at all, but a blend of botanical ingredients meant to replicate the scent of leather. it works surprisingly well! there's an almost licorice-y undertone to it which makes me speculate that anise or fennel might be present. the incense isn't as forward as it is in mourning ritual, but it's there, interwoven beautifully with the leather and old wood. the result is warm and sensual--an incredibly luxurious and undeniably sexy fragrance overall.

fern and moss

lavender flowers, crushed basil, sparkling pink grapefruit, green herbs on a base of vetiver, oakmoss, and tonka bean

this one gets better every time i wear it. the basil is sweet and herbal, harmonizing beautifully with lavender, and the oakmoss at the heart of the blend provides a damp earthiness beneath that i like to describe as "sweet grave dirt." :) i don't layer fragrances often, but i've found that this one pairs very nicely with cuir fétiche.

spirituum

sacred galbanum, green smoke, patchouli, oakmoss, labdanum

i can only describe this fragrance as the feeling of creeping through a dusty, overgrown, haunted manor. it's the smell of a place you weren't meant to stumble upon. ancient and otherworldly, moss crawling up the walls, splintered boards beneath your feet, a strange smoke hanging in the air. a beautiful atmospheric experience that has the strangest effect of making me feel centuries older and wiser.

frost flowers

tuberose petals, jasmine blossoms, frozen mint leaves, black currants, elemi resin, cypress, ambrette musk seed

this one is a journey. it begins as an icy, frosted, minty-floral fragrance that evolves as it warms, slowly melting into a sweeter, slightly musky, almost creamy scent. although it may not be for me personally, i still love it for how unique and magical it is. it would make a beautiful choice for colder months.

saffron rouge

attar of roses, saffron, red spikenard, sweet calamus, cinnamon

this one i was admittedly reluctant to try. from the bottle it smelled overpowering, almost clay-like, but after seeing some other reviewers gushing about it, i finally decided to give it a chance. this fragrance is designed to work with your natural pheromones. on me it remains quite saffron-forward, though the roses begin to bloom as it wears. the result is a mild, musky-floral fragrance that sticks intimately close to the skin. not bad at all, but not as enthralling or sexy as i'd hoped. perhaps an undead body simply doesn't produce enough pheromones to allow this scent to really work its magic. :)

nuit désert

blood cedarwood, cedar leaf, jasmine, sandalwood, vetiver, smoke

another beautiful, evocative scent with the power to transport you. this one opens with a crisp, fleeting flash of green that swiftly settles into dry, woody, smoky magic. the jasmine is delicate, not overwhelmingly floral. it's open night air in a bottle. distant campfire smoke on the wind. silence. a fragrance that invokes a sense of solitude, but one that's deeply comforting. far from people, far from sound, far from anything that would hurt you.

violet woods

violet leaf and petals, orris root, sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood

this is an interesting, deceptive scent! initially dark, woody, and leafy--but an unexpected sweetness begins to arise as it evolves, mixing with the soft, delicate violet. i couldn't detect any of this sweetness from the bottle, so it was a welcome surprise. ♡ it's subtle overall, with a powdery, vintage quality. i think it would be adored by those who gravitate towards "grandma" perfumes or find other fragrances overpowering.

papillon de nuit

palo santo wood, ambrette seed, botanical white musk accord, white copal resin, sandalwood

i don't think i like camphorous scents very much. :( this fragrance is too sharp and crisp for me, chilling my nose from the inside like a vapor rub. i hoped i would warm up to it as it settled, but i simply couldn't overcome the camphor in the end and i had to wash it off. on a more positive note, this scent is being reformulated without palo santo oil out of respect for the indigenous community, and what remains of their stock is being used to support indigenous and environmental organizations.

♡

feu follet

smoke, wood, botanical leather, tree resin and charred bark

when i first sampled this scent, it moved me nearly to tears. it brought back near-forgotten memories from a lifetime ago, of being a child and burying my face in my mother's jacket, breathing in the lingering warmth of a campfire. beautiful, bold woodsmoke, pure and simple. as this scent is an eau de parfum, it has more throw than what i typically prefer to wear, but when autumn arrives and the temperature begins to fall, a dab of this fragrance could warm a room. this fullsize is another cherished gift from a friend.

♡♡

pêche obscène

peach, jasmine blossoms, damp earth, vetiver, moss, sandalwood, patchouli

this fragrance was initially a limited collaboration with chelsea wolfe, but due to popular demand it now restocks periodically! this, to me, is lvnea's most spellbinding scent. i've never described it without using the word intoxicating. the sweet juice of a ripe, perfect peach on a pillow of jasmine that slowly decays into damp earth and moss. an absolutely gorgeous, almost narcotic sensory experience. this fragrance carried me through a certain chaotic year, and even now whenever i feel stress begin to weigh me down, i find myself reaching for this bottle.

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sixteen92 | undead collection

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strigoi

freshly exhumed funerary boxes, a circle of salt, cold iron stake, heavy stone, stinging rain, blood, fire

i feel tremendously fortunate that i was able to get my claws on this fragrance before its collection was retired. if the vampiric theme wasn't enough to draw me in, the scent itself left me spellbound. it is intoxicating. much like its namesake, this is a fragrance caught in the balance between living and dead. it almost defies description. cold, metallic, and desolate--yet warm, spicy, and earthy. deeply somber, but powerfully alluring. it's damp earth surrounding a coffin, a stake that missed the heart. i never feel more at home in my skin than when i'm wearing this.

♡

banshee

frozen honeycomb, wispy fog, sheer linen, spectral violet, moonflower, shattered glass

this one is gorgeous. it opens with the sweetness of honey which slowly unravels--giving way to soft, somber florals, like a mournful cry rising into the night. the linen enshrouds you, the fog and shattered glass notes dancing around the edges of your perception like shadowy phantoms. a truly haunting, beautiful fragrance--i love it even more on my partner. ♡

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onryō

dry cedar heartwood, warm sandalwood, plum wine, white birch, pale vanilla, delicate pine needle, grey ash

this scent is neither as cold nor as intense as one may expect from a fragrance named after a vengeful spirit. instead, it's warm, delicate, sweet. the plum wine harmonizes beautifully with the wood notes, all wrapped up in the gentle sweetness of vanilla. it's one of my favorites to wear at home, owing to the sense of comfort that blankets me each time i apply it. perhaps this relief is more reminiscent of a ghost that has taken its vengeance and is finally allowed to rest.

revenant

autumnal apples, saffron crocus, crisp golden leaves, unripe pumpkin, dusty hay bales, honey bourbon

this one initially hit too aggressively like a seasonal candle, but i like it much more after it's aged for a bit in the bottle. it's settled into something tastefully warm and spicy, like bourbon-spiked apple cider. in fact, it brings back cozy memories of sipping hot cider with a crew of creatures in the back of our barnyard haunt, warming our bloodstained hands . . . :) it's not as sinister as the name suggests, but for people who are especially enthusiastic about fall vibes, i think this one would be appreciated.

wraith

luminous amber, divinatory tea leaves, candle wax, pomegranate, black myrrh, howling wind, otherworldly musks

when i first sampled this one, the pomegranate notes seemed to overpower everything else in the bottle, giving it an almost unbearable grapelike scent. i'm pleased to say that time has been very, very kind to this fragrance. ♡ the pomegranate has settled down, allowing the remaining notes their chance to shine--and they're gorgeous. the honeyed warmth of amber, the soothing earthiness of tea leaves, and the soft pomegranate all combine to create something truly otherworldly. it gives me visions of bloodborne's oedon chapel, possibly attributed to the presense of incense and candle wax. :)

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sixteen92 | not a phase collection

crushcrushcrush

orange rock candy, whipped marshmallow fluff, bourbon vanilla, neroli, toasted sugar

this scent was described as "high-angle myspace selfie vibes" and i can truly feel the blingee filter around me. i wasn't sure how much i'd end up liking this one because i don't tend to gravitate towards really sweet fragrances, but it's wonderful. it's warm and cozy--more like a toasted marshmallow than the overwhelming candy punch that i expected. i can certainly see me using this one as a mood lifter for gloomier days. ♡

♡

i'm not a vampire

black pepper and crystallized ginger, summer bonfire, sweet tobacco, leather bound books, warm spiced amber, a stiff drink

this one went above and beyond my expectations. beautifully spicy, smoky, and woody with an underlying tobacco sweetness and boozy kick. it's reminiscent of sinking into the aged leather chairs of a cigar lounge--though there is a vague sense of isolation to it, true to its description of "why do you never leave your room vibes". a gorgeous, moody, heavily atmospheric fragrance. amusingly enough this was the only song in the collection i didn't recognize, but i promptly educated myself. the irony of wearing this one is not lost on me. :)

i write sins not tragedies

bee pollen, wilted tea rose, golden orange, stone fruit blossoms, honeyberry, olibanum, cashmere musks

this smells exactly as i would imagine the chapel from the music video to smell like. wilted florals, incense, the lingering muskiness of a man's cologne--all lifted by the bright sweetness of honey & citrus. there's even a dusty quality to it that i can't pin down. it strikes me as sensual, dark, and playful all at once. i like it more the longer it wears, and while i'm not yet sure how well this fragrance suits me personally, i do think it's a beautiful work of art that any fan of the band (or general emo nostalgia) would be very lucky to experience.

♡

thank you for the venom

cherry lipgloss, smudged liner, orris, woody vanilla, bitter almond, cannabis flower accord, smokeshop incense

quick aside--i really respect the choice of this track over their much more popular hits! as for the fragrance itself--it is, for lack of a more eloquent description, very gender. :) a delicious blend of cherry, almond, and vanilla woven smoothly with incense and orris. despite the appetizing notes, there's an undeniable dark undertone to the blend that brings to mind visions of messy rooms, messy hair, messy emotions far too great for troubled youth to handle. i love an atmospheric fragrance, especially one that's deceptively so.

♡♡

this ain't a scene it's an arms race

polished wooden booths, coffee milkshakes, brick walls, crumpled concert set lists, clove cigarettes

this fragrance was described as "a late-night coffeehouse after the show . . . nostalgia-inducing for former emo kids and theatre kids alike" and it really does pack a powerful atmospheric punch. grounding and soothing, but deeply emotionally evocative. gentle, earthy aromas of sweetened coffee between wafts of clove. the textures of smooth wood and rustic brick. caffeine fighting off the post-show exhaustion. i can't get enough of this scent--absolutely my favorite of the collection. ♡

very handsome awkward

amalfi lemon, sparkling prosecco, white rum, coconut palm, dry beach grasses, sand everywhere

this is the most traditionally summery scent of the bunch, proving faithful to its description of "awkward family vacation vibes." bright, fruity, and beachy, with a subtle touch of booziness from the rum and wine. it may not be quite as adventurous as the rest of the collection, but it's not disappointing by any means. it's a breath of fresh seaside air--refreshing and sweet, a cute little mood booster of a fragrance. :)

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sixteen92 | 80's goth collection

♡

bela lugosi's dead

night-black clove bud, tobacco absolute, smoked benzoin resin, flame

inspired by the bauhaus track of the same name, this fragrance was originally from their fall 2015 80's goth collection. i had my heart set on trying this the moment it returned, and i finally got my chance with their september 2022 legacy. ♡ this fragrance was well worth the wait. benzoin-rich and sweet, with a warm clove undercurrent. delicate, shadowy tendrils of tobacco smoke rise as the scent develops, unfolding into a deathly embrace of vanillic smokiness. it's beautiful--a new go-to for sure.

♡♡

(every day is) halloween

an overflowing candy pail, the crunch of leather boots on fallen leaves, cold stones, damp air and a wisp of bonfire smoke

the second scent from their 80's goth collection is inspired by ministry's weirdo anthem, so it was an absolute must-have for me. :) this fragrance opens with the sweet, sugary punch of a trick or treat bag after a successful excursion, but within seconds begins its evolution into atmospheric fall magic. the rich aroma of chocolate soon rises above the blend of treats, enveloped in a delicate shroud of cool evening air and distant smoke. the leather was late to bloom on me, but carries a creeping, earthier sweetness of its own that melds perfectly with the rest of the blend. the scene unfolds, awakening visions of glowing jack-o-lanterns along leaf-strewn paths, the rattle and rustle of candy in a plastic pail, the bubble of excitement as costumed crowds hurry from house to house. true to its description--it's halloween night captured in a bottle.

♡

lucretia, my reflection

orris root, immortelle, white sandalwood, blackened vanilla, star anise

the third fragrance of the 80's goth collection is based on the brooding, darkly seductive hit by the sisters of mercy. my initial impression of this scent is a creamy, bewitching floral. the immortelle note is complex, the burnt vanilla and undercurrent of licorice providing some sweetness while giving the blend its shadowy, blackened touch. very goth and mysterious--i've seen it described as "feminine with a twist" and i can't disagree. :) a fragrance that's every bit as entrancing as the track that inspired it. lucretia, my reflection, dance the ghost with me...

♡♡

last exit for the lost

orchard apples, woven wood baskets, dried hay, distant chimney smoke on cool air

the fourth fragrance of the 80's goth collection is inspired by the ten-minute atmospheric powerhouse of a track by fields of the nephilim. i will admit i had my doubts about the apple note, expecting it to be very artificial and candylike as apple scents tend to be, but instead this green apple opener is fresh, crisp, and impressively realistic--swiftly turning my expectation on its head. i'm very curious about the synesthetic association there as it relates to the song, but it works so well that i can't question it. this is a dreamy autumnal atmospheric, tart apple entwined beautifully with the dry sweetness of hay. as it evolves on my skin the apple breaks from the branch, giving way to wood and smoke rising against a darkening grey sky. i'm not generally drawn to fruity scents but every note works together to soften the initial tartness of the apple. it's a gorgeous balance--last exit is really something special. providing spellbound doesn't overtake it, this may be my favorite of the collection.

spellbound

creamed pumpkin, spiced bourbon & tahitian vanillas, sticky marshmallow fluff

the fifth and final fragrance of the 80's goth collection is based on siouxsie and the banshees' most iconic hit. the notes are quintessentially autumnal, but mercifully lacking the cheap pumpkin-spiced candle punch that i come to expect from other pumpkin-based fragrances. very sweet, creamy, and pleasant! i definitely smell edible while wearing this--think a pumpkin spice cake topped with a generous amount of icing. i'm certain that gourmand fiends would adore this. while it hasn't dethroned last exit as my personal fave of the series, it's still a beautiful addition to my collection--and one i'm very, very happy to embrace the fall season with. ♡

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sixteen92 | other

♡

hush

ethereal vapor, fog machine juice, surgical steel, plastic Halloween masks, a piercing scream

i've admittedly [and perhaps a bit shamefully] never seen an episode of buffy the vampire slayer, but i do regard the nosferatu-esque gentlemen with some familial fondness, and when i saw fog juice listed in the notes i knew i simply had to try this one. as a haunt actor no scent is more nostalgic to me than the dense mist of a fog machine. true to description, this fragrance opens as a cool, creeping mist, grazed with the sharpness of metal. icy and deathlike, it invokes a strange sensation of stillness. it reminds me a bit of banshee, another fave from the same house. less honeyed/floral and more metallic, but still very cold! i'm certain they share a note--perhaps the ethereal vapor and wispy fog are one and the same. :) it smells clean, in a grim, surgical way. a fresh sheet over a body and a row of sanitized instruments in a tray. sinister and intriguing. ♡

villains

candle soot, pine rosin, blood red pomegranate, howling forest winds, darkened crystals, sacred herbs

dark, dark, dark. it smells like a snuffed-out candle in a magic circle, wisps of incense in the darkness, an otherworldly sweetness in the air. sinister, oppressive. i'd assumed this would be similar to wraith due to the notes they share, but was surprised to find that wasn't the case at all. the pomegranate note [which i was admittedly somewhat wary of] lacks the overpowering tartness that initially put me off wraith, and is instead very pleasant and soft. the forbidden magic vibes are potent--wearing this feels like commanding a force greater than oneself.

fool for love

leather jacket, chipped black nail polish, burning roses, bad poetry

this one i received as a free bonus sample with my order of spellbound and vlad dracul. :~) joining villains and hush in their hellmouth (btvs) collection, this fragrance is described as smelling like "19th century angst." the rose is prominent--a very dark, smoky floral that slowly releases the warmth of worn leather as it wears. the more abstract notes are difficult to pin down--i can't seem to isolate anything but smoke, rose, and leather. not a terribly unique combination, but pleasant to wear all the same. it does strike me as dark and romantic--i would recommend this to anyone fond of dark, moody florals.

necromancy

datura metel, ceremonial incense, funeral flowers, benzoin resin, ancient spirit boards, oud

my partner surprised me with this pick from their forbidden arts collection before it was retired. ♡ beautifully somber... incense-forward and powerfully floral, with a current of rich dark woods underneath. a bouquet of faded, wilting blooms, comparable to lvnea's mourning ritual, but not as rosy. the datura and benzoin lend a deathlike touch of sweetness to the blend. the result is something austere, brooding, and refined, with an ancient and scholarly vibe reminiscent of walking into an occult bookstore.

♡

baker street

earl grey tea, dark aged vanilla, sweet tobacco, mahogany chairs, dusty leather-bound books, and a drop of blackest musk

another surprise from my partner, who ordered it without knowing i've been hoping to find a good earl grey fragrance ! :) the first note to hit my nose is indeed that long sought-after aroma of bergamot-laced black tea. the remaining notes creep forward in almost the exact order that they're listed--a sweet, mature union of vanilla and pipe tobacco, followed at a distance by deep wood and aged leather. the musk remains undetectable for me, but this may change as the fragrance ages. overall a cozy and appropriately studious blend--it strikes me as the olfactory impression of a pinterest photo of a fresh cup of tea against a backdrop of books, all washed out with a grey filter.

♡♡♡

vlad dracul

carpathian fir needle, red cedar, black amber, black patchouli, scorched earth, opium, blood musk

i was very fortunate to receive this one as a surprise in a mystery sample set--they were so attentive to my favorite notes! vlad dracul is an absolute dream. a crimson-stained masterpiece of a fragrance that's enough to rival this house's other vampiric triumph, strigoi. both are very dark, earthy, and woody, but in comparison to strigoi, this one is warmer and less rainy. the spicy-sweet earthiness of patchouli really shines in this blend. the metallic "blood" note has such a grip on me--in vlad dracul, it feels representative of the warmth of fresh blood, as opposed to strigoi's cold, lifeless vitae of the undead. it's such a relief to know that this is a staple in their general catalogue. i'm already considering a fullsize. :~)

♡

sick, sad world

dry breakfast cereal, steamed milk, used bookstore, crisp newspaper, wool jacket, knee-high black boots

this fragrance is inspired by the cynical 90's classic, daria. it opens strong with the delicious, invigorating aroma of cereal milk. the particular type of cereal is hard to discern, but it's very sweet! on my skin it evolves slowly, bringing out a touch of leather--perfectly subtle!--and aged paper. atmospheric, introspective, and a little moody. i imagine it would speak to grunge nostalgists and children of disillusioned generations. a gloomy summer fragrance, but a beautiful morning wake-up all the same.

♡

bad reputation

rolling paper, cannabis, cherry cola, worn leather jacket, torn magazine pages

joan jett's rebel anthem is paid homage by this olfactory treat. sweet, leathery, and a little smoky, it perfectly encapsulates that 80's edge! first impression is a strong union of sugary cherry cola and warm, well-worn leather. the cola note is unique--i don't think i have anything like this in my collection. :) like other s92 fragrances that share a "paper" note, it only becomes detectable after the leading notes have faded. a delicious blend overall--atmospheric with an attitude. it's easy to see why this is a best-seller.

androctonus australis

rum, wild fig, dry papyrus, sweet tobacco, oud

androctonus australis--better known as the yellow fat-tailed scorpion--is one of five well-defensed creatures represented by s92's venomous collection. this is a very dry, woody fragrance, warm and arid as the territory of its namesake. the first notes to surface upon application are the rich warmth of oud and a dry, paperlike scent, likely the papyrus that's listed. this dry woodiness soon begins a transformation, chased by the spicy-sweetness of rum and the unique, almost creamy presence of fig. this one was an interesting, welcome surprise in my mystery sample set. :~)

♡♡

highgate cemetery

earl grey tea, lavender sprigs, juniper berry, ivy, gravel, crumbling cobblestones, delicate fallen leaves, soft mittens

one of five scents that comprise their cemetery-inspired memento mori collection, the site of this blend's namesake is located in north london. i've had my eye on this fragrance for a while, and when their rerelease happened to line up with the development of my oc lyric, i took it as the perfect opportunity. lyric is a cemetery-haunting perfumer possessing a strange fixation with death, who i've described as smelling like lavender and herbs, so i truly think it was meant to be. :) i definitely get the tea first--sweet and warm like a freshly brewed cup. the lavender creeps closely behind, gentle and sigh-inducing. it's around this point that the fragrance turns somewhat dusty. perhaps the gravel and cobblestones making their presence known? on me, the herbaceous green notes remain merely a subtle undercurrent as it wears, like a distant rustle of leaves over gravestones. sixteen92's atmospherics never disappoint--i feel so at ease wearing this. highgate cemetery is a comforting, peaceful memento mori, perfectly fitting for the oc that inspired me to try it in the first place.

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death and floral

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bones melting together

dusty dry bone dust accord, coffin wood, bergamot

when i first applied this i actually laughed in delight . . . i've never been won over so quickly by a house before. :) this is the cleanest, purest vanilla i've ever smelled in a perfume. rich, soothing vanilla bean--woven smoothly with the sweet spark of bergamot like a london fog latte. i adore the imagery of the title as well as the label art--the vibes are very tzimisce to me. ♡ there's an eeriness to the blend that manifests in the dust and aged wood, but on me it's perfectly subtle, just enough to add some depth to the sweet and milky scent. a beautifully blended goth gourmand--though it may not have been intended as such.

people-watching the dead

spiced bread and paprika blended with silk amber

this is a lovely autumn fragrance, rich and warming. less savory than sweet, but not overwhelmingly so--it reminds me of an unfrosted spice cake cooling in a loaf pan. the inclusion of paprika and amber adds some dimension while keeping the existing spicy-sweetness of the bread nicely balanced. the kind of fragrance to wear on a cozy horror movie night--so special and perfect for the fall season that i can't really imagine wearing it at any other time of the year.

♡

doom and gloom

a blend of delicate musks and creamy woods combine to emulate the salty skin of grief combined with the memory of a long-gone lover

when i first smelled this from the bottle i had forgotten the notes but i was shocked by how much it smelled like tears. how did they capture it so well? salty, acrid, and musky. beneath those weepy top notes there's a sourness to it that reminds me of sweaty, stale skin, or that drying combination of tears, mucus, and skin flakes that crusts on your face after the cry. it's not exactly gross, just intriguingly organic. i'm super impressed by how realistic it is, and very pleased that the ugliness doesn't seem to be glossed over in favor of an idealized, more appealing representation of grief/depression. :) on my skin i find that it's pleasantly wearable, if a little unusual. like wearing a second, saltier human skin, or at least a subtle amplification of a natural body scent. unexpectedly soothing, and my partner appreciates the soft muskiness. a unique and powerful atmospheric, and a reminder that fragrance truly is an art.

♡

queen of moths

incense, rich chocolate, decaying flowers, tobacco, dark woods, attic dust

another gorgeous new go-to. at first i found it difficult to distinguish between the individual notes upon application, but the scent as a whole blends so nicely i couldn't complain. richly sweet, with a somber touch from the decaying florals. the incense is prominent, rounded out beautifully with those delicate dust and old wood notes. the way the wood and tobacco interweave reminds me of an old cigar box. it's so dark and cozy, and by the evening it settles to just dust and wood. what if stale attic air smelled really, really good. :)

♡

full of fire and stars and all of october

dark red wine, barrel-aged in a long abandoned cellar, blended with golden patchouli and osmanthus

oh wow! i wasn't sure what to expect from the freebie of the month, but i was very very pleasantly surprised by how much i liked this. :) earthy, spicy, warm. the red wine note is deep, the star of the show, twisted together with the rich spice of patchouli in a way that strikes me as dark and sensual. i feel amazing wearing this--it has that ancient and otherworldly vampiric vibe i'm always searching for. sexy sanguine luxury.

vampire market

freshly steamed rice, juicy blood orange, open-air night market spices

i was very excited to try this one for its intriguing steamed rice note--and this rare note is front and center. :~) soft, pleasant, almost sweet--like fresh jasmine rice. it turns a little floral as it evolves, the blend of spices and subtle tang of blood orange staying quite comfortable in the background. a unique, gentle gourmand, and a very soft and soothing fragrance overall.

♡

famous blue raincoat

the scent of an old typewriter, weathered blue fabric, and static

a scent inspired by the mournful narrative of a leonard cohen song. first impression straight from the bottle is that it smells blue, the impression of the color so shockingly intense it feels as though it could bleed into my vision. as it wears it paints a somber scene, bringing to mind the weight and chill of a cold night rain--but everything is washed in the deepest, most sorrowful blue. it's rainy and metallic--a beautiful union touched with a fleeting, fading spark of electricity. there's such a depth to this scent that i have to wonder if there's a hidden note in this. melancholic and dreamy. a perfect tribute to its namesake.

♡

monsters still under my bed

creaky floor wood, spiced nutmeg, golden oudh, chewy tobacco, vanilla copal resins, smokey warm amber

that dusty wood note is prominent, almost overpowering upon first application. fortunately it was quick to settle, the warmth of its supporting notes creeping out like shy little claws from the darkness. this fragrance is unexpectedly warm and comforting, a hug you didn't know you needed. there's a note buried deep in this that's subtly reminiscent of play-doh--the amber, perhaps?--but whether or not it's intentional, it manages to stir memories of a childhood with all its associated terrors chased away. it reminds me of the story of gwen from nightmares and fairy tales, a little girl unaware that the monsters in her closet want only to protect her.

halloween on christmas

a spiraling and dizzying blend of black hemlock and dreamwood, with frozen acorn accord and dead dry leaves in a rich wooded forest

this is the driest wood fragrance in my collection. from the bottle it seemed much fainter than other scents from this house, but on my skin it blooms to expected strength. the black hemlock is mossy and slightly smoky, darkening and counter-balancing the signature creamy warmth of sandalwood. it brings to mind a copse of twisted, dead trees, the crunch of leaves and fallen acorns underfoot, and the chill of winter just before the first snow. grey and lifeless in a deeply cozy way. :~)

♡♡

the soft crunch of bread and bone

flakey coconut french madeleines, stifling bakery air, vanilla cremé and crunchy macarons, the last sip of green tea with a mysterious lover

one of my most anticipated scents from this house, as i've been searching for a realistic bakery fragrance. that bread note is the most convincing i've ever smelled, and it harmonizes beautifully with the coconut and vanilla. i like the use of "stifling" in the note description--there's an almost stagnant, thick quality to it that adds to the realism. not a complaint by any means--in fact it reminds me of when my partner comes home from work. :) if there's a presence of almond in this, it's subtle, but believably so, as macarons are delicate little things and generally not the first scent you'd detect upon stepping into a bakery. layering this with a coffee or black tea single note would send it through the roof. ♡

the people you love become ghosts inside you

heavenly musk, lingering funeral flowers, cold scent of vanilla in an empty corridor, handprints on a foggy window

this scent is unique among the rest of the house's catalog, as it comes with a disclaimer: (‘the people you love become ghosts inside you‘ is a heavy atmospheric that has been reported to cause feelings of intense emotion and is sometimes unpleasant in its vulnerability. not for the faint-hearted!)

...and heavy it is, with no exaggeration to be found. from the bottle there's a sharpness that stings the nose like a pained breath, intense and deathly cold. my partner--without even reading the notes--said it smells like a funeral. it's similar in tone to "doom and gloom," but much more oppressive in weight. if doom and gloom is the catharsis after a cry, this is the pressure of grief held in. the notes themselves feel distant, adding to the sense of stillness, of terrible loneliness, of a beloved presence missing. a mournful, deeply powerful atmospheric. this one will haunt me for a while.

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mad labs studios

♡

nosferatu

damp earth, metal, wet stones, smoke

i'm still shocked that no one told me that mad labs studios had a full vampire the masquerade fragrance collection--and of the fourteen clan offerings, i'm certain it surprises no one which ones i chose. :) first impression of the blend is that it smells gritty, like pressing your face to wet pavement. the tang of metal is not only present, but sharp--i couldn't be more impressed. this is a bleak, immersive fragrance, dark and earthy and cold, with little to brighten it. it's the first in my collection that demands to be worn at night. how fitting. ♡ i struggle to find a complimentary way to describe it as almost unpleasant, while still being wearable. offputting, perhaps? to me, it alludes to the nosferatu's repulsive nature. it's the blanket of night concealing an alleyway struggle, the olfactory impression of being dragged helplessly into the shadows, but for those who truly resonate with the nosferatu, it's the electrical hum welcoming you into your cozy warren. the clan of my heart represented by my favorite notes--surely it was meant to be.

tzimisce

dragon's blood, soil, red currant, hemlock

next in line is the clan of fleshcrafters--the fiends, the dragons. ♡ this one is very incense-forward and earthy upon application, but as it settles a strange cloying sweetness begins to claw its way through the soil. the hemlock, possibly? the red currant note is clear, providing a berrylike tartness that almost feels out of place amongst the other notes. despite its sweetness, the blend carries an unsettling, almost sinister quality. it feels ancient and mature, dignified yet merciless--very much the tzimisce as they were depicted in the 90's. this isn't a fragrance to represent a tzim that could still pass for human, it's for those who have embraced monstrosity with all their hands. :)

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black phoenix alchemy lab

♡

our hearts condemn us

keralan teakwood, bulgarian rose otto, himalayan cedar, and oudh

i had put off exploring bpal's offerings for a while, only because i found their store difficult to navigate and their catalog daunting. when i discovered that they had a line of fragrances based on the soundtrack of only lovers left alive, however . . . i knew what my first pick would be. i once spent the better part of a year with nothing but jozef van wissem's minimalist lute compositions on loop--and i still remember how surprised and delighted i was to discover he had scored a vampire movie. :) i'm quite sentimental about the soundtrack, and our hearts condemn us is the track closest to my heart. romantic, sensitive, timeless, ageless.

as for the fragrance itself . . . deeply moving. ♡ it's exactly what i hoped for, what i would imagine accompanying the film's dim lighting and the plucking of lute-strings. it's like settling in for a rest beside your lover in a shared coffin, aged wood and long-dried roses crumbling to dust in casket-corners. to me it whispers the creeping melancholia of immortality, a reminder to find strength in each other even when the centuries drag on and the future feels bleak. how impressive it is to capture such specific emotions in a bottle. :)

black haüs

overgrown ivy creeping through a neglected lavender patch, a whiff of long-forgotten cologne, indigo oudh, mahogany, and teakwood, ti leaf, ectoplasmic musk, and aged leather

this was a gift for me and my partner--and what a thoughtful surprise it was! the two of us are longtime fans of dragula, and this fragrance was made in collaboration with victoria elizabeth black, the star of season 2, resurrection, and titans. black haüs, at least at the time of writing, consists of her and her partner opulence black. this blend suits their drag perfectly! polished and sophisticated, it gives the impression of an overgrown haunted manor, with ivy and mahogany at the forefront. on me, the lavender is slower to bloom, but it does offer some relief against the strength of the wood notes. it's lovely, but perhaps a bit too heavy for regular wear. regardless, i'm delighted to have it in my collection, and i have the little bottle proudly displayed alongside our portrait of vicky. :)

burial

the dark side of earth: deep, brooding forest scents, including juniper and patchouli. the scent of upturned cemetery loam mingling with floral offerings to the dead

this is dirt. :) not much more to say. the heavy weight of damp soil, warmed by patchouli. other reviewers insist there's mint present, but i can't seem to detect it. it smells like a timber timbre song.

baba yaga

spell-soaked herbs and flowers, cold iron, broom twigs, bundles of moss and patchouli root, and moth dust

this one was a bit disappointing. :( so many intriguing notes, and none i could detect but incense. i had to concentrate to find the underlying floral, but any trace was swiftly subdued by the incense. it only smells like a metaphysical shop. not to imply it doesn't smell good--it does!--but i had hoped for something much more complex. metallic notes are my biggest weakness, which is why i was particularly disappointed that the iron was undetectable.

poisoned apple

a perfect, lovely, gleaming red apple whose sweetness masks a swirl of narcotic opium, oleander, and hemlock

we seem to be on a decline. :( this is the artificial "green apple candy" note i dread in perfumes. on me, bpal fragrances don't seem to evolve in the way blends from other houses do, but this one gratefully settles upon drydown. the herbal/floral notes creep forward to restrain the overwhelming apple, a welcome relief. it becomes tolerable for me after about 20 minutes of wear, but i think sixteen92's last exit spoiled me for all other apple-based fragrances.

♡

mouse's long and sad tale

vanilla, two ambers, sweet pea and white sandalwood

and we're back! this one is delicate, comforting, and without question the most wearable of the four samples i was provided. the vanilla, amber, sweet pea, and sandalwood are all present and accounted for, and they harmonize perfectly. after the disappointment of the previous imps, i'm really genuinely surprised by how much i like this one. it's so light and airy and sweet. i could name a certain bodycare mall chain that might carry something that smells similar to this--but while it's nothing adventurous, it's pleasant all the same. :)

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stereoplasm

the teeth

bosc pear, black fur, pennyroyal tea stains, and burnt out match books

"my teeth are longer than that, said the man, and he grinned at me."

the joy of opening my first order from this house and turning over a tiny little vial labelled "teeth". :) this one is strange, but delightfully so. a tart sweetness with a ghostlike trace of mint, almost reminiscent of dental anesthesia. it has an intriguing, soothing quality--a needle guided expertly into soft gum tissue, and the relief of numbness that follows. very clean, fresh, and delicate. there's a licoricey sweetness that arises as it wears--perhaps a touch of anise to represent black fur?--and something else beneath, possibly the burnt-out matchbook note that i initially thought was too weak to be detectable. it's an experience that keeps circling me back to my initial description: very pleasant and very strange.

♡

bleak house

dusty carpet, labdanum, dark chocolate, leather shoes, pits of plum, hourglass sand, and obsidian musk

first application violently whipped me with a vivid scent memory of office carpet, or even an old shag rug--shocking in its intensity and hyperrealism. eventually the dust brushes away to uncover a mysterious blend of salted chocolate and musk, and then the note of leather shoes comes out to play, and immediately the fragrance takes its dark, seductive turn. it reminds me of "dark entries" by bauhaus... if you know you know. :) it's like a haunted leyendecker painting hanging in a dim parlor, like catching a faint trace of men's aftershave wafting through dead, stifling air. i'm really impressed by this one. haunting, atmospheric, and profoundly homoerotic. ♡

unholy water

barbed wire and rust, sacrificial blood orange, cursed saffron licked by flames of a burning chapel

who doesn't like to indulge in a little sacrilege from time to time? ♡ heavy, dark, and intense. the first note to hit my nose is the leathery spice of saffron, followed by an unholy matrimony of bittersweet citrus and rusted metals. i'm very, very fond of metallic notes in perfume, and the sharp bite of that rust note is captivating--a perfect counter to the blood orange that reigns in the sweetness of the blend. it conjures imagery of blackened, splintered wood, silhouettes of crosses collapsing against a red sky, hands stained with an offering of blood. wicked and diabolical.

the graveyard shift

black coffee spiked with whiskey, wet dirt underfoot, clove cigarettes, a sticky, warm cinnamon bun, the distant sound of a ringing bell

the bold warmth of cinnamon is the first to hit upon application, a heat that flares up before mellowing out. on me this scent seems to unravel linearly, the individual notes making their presence known one by one before converging. the sweet spice of clove into the earthy petrichor of muddy ground into the daring booziness of irish coffee. not complex at all, just a very rich, spicy-earthy blend. much warmer than i expected. it's lovely, but unfortunately turned a little too sweet & overpowering on my skin after a couple hours of wear and i ended up having to scrub it. truly a shame!

la tazza

flaky croissant, iced marocchino dusted with cocoa powder, antique porcelain and rich agarwood

subtle, sweet, and woody, with faint aromas of coffee and soft freshly-baked bread. there's a prominent cool, crisp note that i suspect may be the porcelain. this scent has a powdery vintage quality to it, more reminiscent of a lightly floral grandma perfume than the delicious air of a cafe-bakery that i had hoped for. the name may be humorously literal in this case as this scent seems to represent the cup itself over its contents. not a disappointing fragrance, just not quite what i expected from the description. curious to see how this fragrance ages! perhaps time will tease out those gourmand notes. :)

...and me!

blinking mahogany walls, valerian root, midnight sandalwood oil, spiced rum, gold rust

"just as i thought," she said to herself. "there is no one in this room but me."

the first of a very generous four bonus samples that came in my order. a soft woody opening that unites smooth, musky sandalwood with deep, earthy mahogany. the rum provides a subtle undercurrent of spice--very gentle and pleasant! it doesn't seem to develop much as it wears. nothing complex to analyze in this one, just a cozy breather of a fragrance.

mothman

grey vetiver, phalaenopsis (moth orchid), red cardamom and a hint of sulphur

my initial expectation for a fragrance based on the point pleasant cryptid was that it would be dark and musky, but instead this scent begins as a very fresh and delicate floral. it gives a strong impression of soapy, clean laundry. definitely unexpected. and then . . . there it is. :) an eeriness arises--a subtle dustiness that creeps in ever so slowly. so faint you'd think you were imagining it, but it's there. it turns a little dry, a little spicy. still a bit too fresh for regular wear, but a fun atmospheric journey nonetheless.

salacious snail

dew on canopy leaves, forest moss, bleeding hearts, androgynous musk and sea salt

fresh, damp, and green. first notes of dew and salt, and as it develops the musk and moss slowly venture to introduce themselves. i'm not typically very fond of aquatics, but disregarding personal preference this scent is light and lovely. like a very clear, sodden patch of grass on a flooded lawn. not bad. certainly gives the vibe of snail slime, but the salaciousness is a little lost on me. :)

frog dew

swamp azalea, wild basil, bergamot, luminescent marsh gas, and devil fruit

this one is similar to salacious snail, and by the notes alone i thought i would prefer this one. very fresh and dewy, but brighter, sweeter, and less musky than the previous scent. i really wanted to like this one for its swampy theming--and bergamot is usually one of those notes that wins me over!--but in the end there was no 'wow' moment to be found. :( nothing bad or offputting about it, it simply fell a little flat for me.

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andromeda's curse

♡

beast of blood

wormwood, dragons blood, agarwood, oakmoss, luxurious cashmere

this is a scent based on the malice mizer song and it's every bit as dark, elegant, and spellbinding as i'd hoped. intoxicating blend of incense and old wood that, upon application, hit like a drug. too-warmly inviting you into a castle sort of vibe. lounging in a beam of moonlight through a stained glass window sort of vibe. vampiric. sexy. diabolical.

she dreams in digital

icy blueberries, sea salt, lavender, ylang ylang, oakmoss, sandalwood, the inevitability of entropy

for a fragrance inspired by an orgy song, this one is surprisingly delicate ! it's initially VERY floral and fresh, but as it evolves the earthy notes come out to ground and balance it. the blueberry sweetness is there, but very subtle. my partner describes it as smelling more like an evanescence song. it smells blue regardless. :)

♡

undead, undead, undead

clove, orange, incense, frankincense, myrrh, vetiver, patchouli, black musk

a scent based on bauhaus' goth anthem was a must-have for me. i saw many reviewers saying this scent reminded them of their younger days in goth clubs. it's beautiful--warm and spicy, heavy with clove and incense, and subtly sweet. the citrus adds a touch of brightness, but not enough to send a goth running for the shadows. it's also very long-lasting, and a little goes a long way. i'll be ordering a full-size bottle of this one for sure.

apple of discord

blood red apples, sage, pekoe tea, devilwood flower, orris root, ginger, honey, cedarwood, egyptian amber, red musk

this one was a surprise bonus sample in my order. :) not one i would have chosen myself, but not bad at all. the apple was initially a bit scented-candley but i like it more as it settles. the tea comes out and there's a bit of spice to it, assumedly from the ginger. my partner describes this one as "a nice witch gave you a candy apple." ♡

scrying orb

smoke, moss, lavender, tea, vanilla pipe tobacco, sandalwood, vegan ambergris

this one is divine. the vanilla tobacco comes through strong, making it smoky-sweet. as it begins to settle the smokiness blends beautifully with the earthiness of the moss, and occasionally the lavender gets its chance to shine through. a very rich, atmospheric fragrance, though it fades a little too soon.

the hanged man

worn leather, pipe tobacco, dark rum, neroli, dirt, cedarwood, oakmoss

the hanged man card has always held a special significance for me, so i was really happy to see so many of my favorite notes reflected in this scent. this one is intoxicatingly earthy but much sweeter than expected, owing to the strength of the rum and tobacco. there's something dark and damp about it that brings to mind leather boots trudging through mud. it doesn't last very long on me, but it's lovely nonetheless.

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seance

cemetery

dragonsblood resin, grass, earth, moss, wood, hints of vanilla and patchouli

i found this fragrance at an oddities shop while on vacation with my partner. ♡ of the few i was able to sample from their collection, i liked this one the most. the dragonsblood is very prominent when worn, so the overall scent leans more incensy than the earthiness that first drew me in. it's quite sweet, a little candle-y in its strength, and though i appreciate their aesthetics, i'm not sure how interested i am to try the other scents from this brand. it does makes me smell like the shop i bought it from, making it a wonderful little souvenir. :)

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